Men's Health

Haircuts 101: A Guide For Men

By Rodney Cutler

Your Problem: My hair is still there, but it's boring. Guidance?

Rodney's solution: The key is finding a style that works for you seven days a week, whether you're at the office, out on a date, or just going to meet your parole officer. It should also be easy to maintain—no more than two minutes each morning—and it should complement your features. Any good stylist can give you an accurate analysis of what works for you. But if you're too ashamed to ask, know two things: Long, squarish faces look better with layers, and round faces need something more tapered. Whatever cut you choose, this handy chart will serve as your guide.

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Rodney Cutler is a former Australian-football player, a current Ironman triathlete, and the owner of the Cutler salons in New York City.

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STYLE: SHORT

WHAT TO TELL YOUR BARBER

Choppy and a little longer on top. Keep the sides loose. High-and-tights should stay in the military. Ask for the Jimmy Fallon. Hey, the chump has good hair.

WORST MISTAKE

Creating an obvious part, combing your hair forward, or whatever Simon Cowell did.

HOW TO STYLE

Squeeze a nickel-sized amount of product into your hands. then work it into the roots from front to back. Do not comb. Do not brush. Cut every four to six weeks.

WHAT TO USE

Maneuver paste ($11 for 1.7 oz.) by Redken. Creates separation and hold without stickiness.

STYLE: MEDIUM

WHAT TO TELL YOUR BARBER

You want that lived-in, Jeremy Irons look—comfortable, not indigent. Ask for soft layers. This looks best with wavy hair.

WORST MISTAKE

The blow-dryer. You'll end up looking like a stick of cotton candy. Or Michael Madsen.

HOW TO STYLE

Get a quarter-sized dollop of product and start underneath, working your way out for more body. Don't apply it directly to the top; you'll just weigh your hair down. Remember, when you start to look unruly, or when a stranger throws change in your coffee, it's time to hit the salon.

WHAT TO USE

Texture Crème ($11 for 4.2 oz.) by American Crew. Provides hold and texture.

STYLE: LONG

WHAT TO TELL YOUR BARBER

Layered and loose. You don't want people to think you spend three hours on your hair. Think Pacino or Orlando Bloom.

WORST MISTAKE

Hair spray. You'll end up looking like a Chippendales dancer. Also not a good idea with curls. Sorry, Pedro.

HOW TO STYLE

As with medium length, avoid the blow-dryer. Don't wash your hair every day, either. The natural oils will provide moisture and weight and keep the frizz to a minimum. A rule of thumb for cuts: If you can tie it, time to lose it.

WHAT TO USE

Creme with Silk Groom ($30 for 8.4 oz.) by Kiehl's. Provides a soft, light hold.

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